TOMATO LEAVES

Tomato leaves suggest the green smell of the growing plant rather than the sweetness of ripe tomato flesh. In perfume, this can feel leafy and vegetal, with an earthy side that recalls a planted garden. A bright interpretation may emphasise freshness, while a heavier one can bring out the impression of soil and dense foliage.

Both natural material and composed accords exist. Hermitage Oils offers an absolute of Solanum lycopersicum leaves with a deeper green, earthy character; this is not simply the smell of tomato juice. Maison Margiela describes a tomato-leaf accord in From the Garden, where mandarin provides brightness and patchouli and geranium contribute to the garden setting. The note name alone cannot tell you which material a fragrance contains. Its appeal lies in a recognisable plant-like freshness that can be more savoury and grounded than a sweet fruit note.