STAR ANISE

Star anise has a clearly recognisable liquorice-like smell: sweet, pungent and aromatic, with a warm woody undertone. It can give a fragrance an anisic accent, meaning the sweet spice character associated with anise, or add contrast beside citrus and other spices. Its sweetness need not make the whole composition a dessert fragrance; the balance can also be dry and aromatic.

The material comes from the star-shaped fruit of Illicium verum. Steam-distilled fruit oil is one form used in perfumery; carbon-dioxide extracts are also available. Anethole is a major contributor to the characteristic aroma. Despite their similar smell and names, star anise and aniseed, from Pimpinella anisum, are different plants. A listed star-anise note does not establish the extract used or fix its position, strength or duration in a finished perfume.